"Nine out of ten English chefs have their names on their chests. Who do they think they are? They're dreamers. They're jokes. Just ask yourself how many chefs in this country have Michelin stars and how many have their names on their jackets. We all wear blue aprons in my kitchen because we're all commis. We're all still learning." Marco Pierre White
White Heat was the first professional cookbook I've ever bought. He was the renegade chef. He was like what Bruce Lee did with Kung Fu, he broke all the rules and made food that changed the London dining scene. White Heat has some of the greatest recipes Marco Pierre White used to serve at Harvey's.
He was and is known as a perfectionist and at age 33 he earned for The Restaurant Marco Pierre White 3 Michelin stars. The youngest to ever earn 3 stars in 1995. But what really got me hooked on him was his legendary obsession with the food he cooked. In 1999 he gave back to Michelin the stars so many chefs around the world would die for and said:
I was being judged by people who had less knowledge than me, so what was it truly worth? I gave Michelin inspectors too much respect, and I belittled myself. I had three options: I could be a prisoner of my world and continue to work six days a week, I could live a lie and charge high prices and not be behind the stove or I could give my stars back, spend time with my children and re-invent myself.
He cooked for himself and his guests. I don't think I will ever be able to have the chance to dine at a table the man himself would be cooking for. Perhaps i won't need to, because there are countless chefs that he has mentored (Gordon Ramsay being one of the more notable ones) and countless more who have bought White Heat and blown away by what this chef philosopher had to say.
Someone stole my copy of White Heat years back from the college (that's why i have a strict policy on books). But i bought another because, a cook book rack without White Heat would be sacrilege. If you have the chance buy his book, read it till it is soiled with butter stains, dog eared, and the pages loose from being folded over and over again. It will change your mind.
Darren
Friday, August 27, 2010
Michel Bras, Inventive Cuisine
This man broke my heart.
When I first saw his book, Essential Cuisine by Michel Bras, I was devastated that a man would come up with the dishes he had. His hand was deft and his palate light. I was stunned, literally, my eyes were green with envy just looking at the beautiful plating that looked complex without even trying.
Michel Bras has been around a long time. Ever had a baked warm chocolate? The one that comes looking like a chocolate cake but has warm chocolate ganache on the inside. This man invented it sometime in the 80s. Reading his recipes, changed how I looked at dishes, I was boggled at how he could imagine all those flavours. Monkfish cooked in black olives, his Gargouillou, his bread sauce, chestnut emulsions. The list goes on from the moment you turn the first page.
I had the honour a few years ago of meeting the man. He only spoke French and our conversation was brief. He stands as a gentlemen, quiet, but speaks like a man with who is truly at peace with his work. And perhaps it shows. I don't know. One day I will, when I take the scenic walk up to his restaurant in Aubrac, France and dine there for myself.
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